Gibney makes a splash in Cottesloe

I was once wined and dined by an uppity media executive in Cottesloe, Perth's boujee beachside suburb and, indeed, the only Perth suburb known outside of Perth. Like many food experiences, it was sadly memorable for what was lacking – notably, edible cuisine or any semblance of service. "It's got great ocean views," locals had assured me beforehand, except that we arrived post sunset to a velvet sea of darkness.

It turned out that this seaside diner, which shuttered a few years back, was a veritable 'Perth thing'. Like Twiggy, and 'Rotto' and WA Inc. Like stunning beaches. Basil Zempilas. An unusually large number of suburbs ending in 'up'.

We could go on, but let's not. Because we'll eventually hit Gina, or Rose Porteous, and no one wants that. Just know that 'Perth things' are those unique elements that inform and drive and sometimes help to explain the particular ways of the world's most isolated capital – a sandy outpost where locals genuinely like to crow about being the world's most isolated capital (and who are we to suggest they've not heard of Honolulu?)

But for all the Ben Cousins and Freo doctors and bore water stains, 'Perth things' have never included a destination dining experience. Sure, there's been places you'd gladly go if you happened to find yourself in town. David Coomer's Star Anise was excellent. Wildflower, despite its wankery (read: foam), held a moment. I also maintain that old school Romany offered the city's best people watching (both gangsters and politicians), while, today, Balthazar is seriously good and accompanied in that bracket by Subiaco's Lulu La Delizia. Still, none have held true pulling power across state lines.

Enter Gibney – a shiny, bona fide 'Perth thing' that not only adds to restaurateur George Kailis' collection of 'Perth things' but stakes a very loud claim to do as directed by the Village People and 'go west'.