Melbourne's Roma is not just another Italian restaurant
It's thoughtful, emotive and exactingly researched. A real Roman trattoria in the heart of Collins Street
The trippa alla romana at Melbourne's Roma, the newest opening from renowned restaurateur Con Christopoulos (The European, Kafeneion, City Wine Shop) and chef/co-owner Matt Wilkinson (Circa, Pope Joan) is, without question, the best tripe dish you will ever eat.
Chefs at the famous Trippa in Milan, or the vast labyrinth of trattorias in Rome where this classic peasant dish originates and is served every day would hurl a mezzaluna at me if I said that to their faces, but then I'd make them taste it.
This version, made by a Northern Englishman in an urban square in central Melbourne, is a world-beater. The ripples of tripe with its coral-like texture are soft as suede. The waves of flavour in the sugo are the result of Wilkinson testing 35 varieties of Italian tomatoes before settling on a winner, which the kitchen team squishes by hand from the jar and finishes with guanciale fat, mint, and a blend of pecorino and Grana Padano. Don't even ask yourself whether or not you like offal. You do. Or you will. You would face lions in a coliseum to eat this particular offal, again and again.
